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  Chile : Articles : Valdivia

Valdivia
ON RIVERS AND PIRATES

Not widely known by tourists, Valdivia is one of the most charming cities in Chile. This is a city suited for those travelers who want to know places plenty of history, anecdotes and legends; for those that once dreamed of being pirates or captains of a Spanish galleon. 

This beautiful city is located in the middle of a luxuriant landscape of channels and rainy forests. It is a city that offers the tourist the opportunity to be a child once again. The chance of dreaming of firing canons and weigh anchors to start a daydream travel to the past. 

Location

Even after many changes, product of progress and natural disasters, Valdivia maintains an interesting balance between human development and Nature, which makes it unique among Chilean tourist locations. 

The city is located 15 kilometers from the sea to which connects by the Valdivia river. This river is formed by the confluence of rivers Calle-Calle and Las Cruces. This area has several islands of different sizes and shapes and the most important are: Teja Island, opposing the city; Del Rey Island, south of Valdivia River; and San Fernando Island. The river flows into the sea formaing a bay 4 kilometers wide and 6 kilometers long, in the middle of which the Mancera Island protects the area.

The Valdivia River final step into the sea is involved with several peninsulas and inlets. Furthermore, in its last segment the Valdivia River is shaped as a letter U. All these factors protect Valdivia City from direct sea attacks. These characteristics gave a tremendous strategic importance to this place. Today Valdivia is an industrial and commercial city, famous for its excellent German style beer, its university, and for the Valdivia cultural activities’ week, time when you can see a river carnival with allegoric ships' parade included. 

Valdivia Origins

The city of Valdivia was founded by don Pedro de Valdivia, the Conqueror of Chile, in the summer of 1552. It was erected in its actual site dominating the rivers Calle-Calle and Las Cruces. It was once considered as the second most important city in Chile. It was abandoned and destroyed during the general Mapuche natives uprising of 1599. 

In 1600 Sebastian de Cordes, a Dutch pirate, took the City. Afterwards Elias Erckmans tried to install a Dutch base for the Pacific in here, but he desisted because of the Mapuche natives' lack of collaboration.

After these events, the Spanish crown decided to fortify the city defenses. The Chilean Kingdom was under the control of the Peruvian Viceroyalty and it was the viceroy who ordered to re-found Valdivia and built the forts. A new wall was erected around the city and the forts of Corral, Niebla and Mancera and several minor places were constructed.

Strangely enough, even after hundred of years preparing them for war, the Valdivian forts participated in only one big battle. And the Spaniards lose it. It happened during the war for the Chilean Independence, a time when Valdivia and Chiloe started to depend directly from Lima as military bases. In 1820 Lord Cochrane, working for the Chilean rebels, succeed in taking the Corral castle during a surprise attack that started in the Gonzalo hill - at the southern side of the bay. This battled broke the resistance of all the Spanish positions and forced the military loyal to the Spanish King to surrender. 

Since the middle of the XIX century up to the beginning of the XX, Valdivia received large numbers of German immigrants who helped to develop manufacturing - especially in the beer and sausages industries. They influenced local customs, traditions and cooking.

Valdivia was one of the most progressive cities in Chile until May 22 of 1960 when a powerful earthquake - the strongest earthquake in modern history - and the tsunami that followed it destroyed the city. But Valdivia was rebuilt once again and today is one of the most attractive of Chilean cities. 

People of Valdivia: Mapuches, Spaniards, Germans.

For thousand of years the American Man lived in the land of volcanoes and lakes where Valdivia stands today. The mixture between the native Mapuches, the Spaniards, plus the European immigrants is the origin of the Chilean people, independent since the beginnings of the XIX century. 

The German presence in the Lake’s District is seen in the architecture, cooking and brewing of fine beers. In fact, the Valdivian beers, produced under German brand names is of such quality that today it is even exported to Germany itself. 

Visiting Valdivia 

Perhaps the best way to enjoy Valdivia and knowing about its past, is going aboard some of its riverboats. The boats travel around the channels making a full tour from Valdivia to the forts of Corral, Mancera and Niebla. The complete trip takes about six hours. Meanwhile you can take lunch on board and take walks to the forts in each stop of the tour. 

The trip allows for enjoying the surprising river flora and fauna that surround Valdivia, plenty of birds such us ducks, pelicans and endemic species. It is also possible to see in there the famous black necked swan swimming quietly through the waterweeds. 

On board the boat you can also look to ships sunken in the 1960 tsunami. These ships are not small ones, which give us an idea of the natural forces that sunk them. Farther away you can see small ferries that shuttle cars between Niebla and Corral.

In the fortresses, you can enjoy riding canons and listening the stories told by the guides. In Niebla Fort, there is a small museum where you can see the Spanish army daily way of life in those bygone times. In Corral Fort, local people represents Spanish army battles against pirates, with uniforms, flags and shooting included. In Mancera Fort, you can visit the cells where the prisoners stood, a really gloomy place that anguishes the heart of a sensible visitor. 

And if you still have some energy, after a really exhausting tour, you can continue visiting the Valdivia City itself, a city that has the privilege of being the only riverside city in this region of the world. You can also enjoy its beaches located half between the river and the sea.

Near Valdivia there are also lakes and snowy volcanoes waiting to be visited. Briefly, Valdivia is a nice place to enjoy history and culture.

Valdivia | Valdivia Forts | The Catastrophe | Spanish Colonial Tech

Text: Omar Vega


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