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Northern
Patagonia
Virgin
and Unexplored Territory
Text: G. Salinas
Photos: Gran Patagonia
Often associated with Argentina, the
Patagonia is an area of terrain with large territories in Chile,
just as in Argentina. The area covers 1,000,000 square kilometers
(386,000 square miles), of which a quarter is Chilean, and includes
the most extraordinary landscapes in the world: glaciers, fjords,
forests, icebergs, lakes, rivers, and grassy plains.
In Chile, the Patagonia reaches from the heart of Reloncavi
in the north to the Strait of Magallenes in the south, excluding the
large island of Chiloe and its interior archipelago, with the same
going for Tierra del Fuego (Land of the Fire) and its archipelago
in the south.
A difference from the rest of the country, in this part of the
national territory it extends from the eastern side of the Andes
to the ocean, and where the Cordillera de la Costa (Mountain Range
of the Coast) forms innumerable archipelagoes that characterize
the region. The areas contain three climatic zones: littoral (Aisen),
where more than 3,000 mm (118 inches) of rain fall annually; the
intermediate or transition (Coihaique) with 950 mm (37 inches) annually;
and the pampa or steppes (Balmaceda), with 500 mm (20 inches) annually.
Nowadays, to talk about the Austral Highway and the Northern
Patagonia is almost the same thing. From the heart of Reloncavi
until the Northern Iceberg, this route travels through a territory
that thanks to her, is one of the most preferred destinations by
tourists. Adventure tourism, fishing, trekking, extreme sports,
kayaking, rafting, and observing flora and fauna in their most wild
state, are only part of the variety of activities that this region
offers.
The
Highway from the North to the South
Splitting in Puerto Montt, the Carretera Austral (Austral Highway)
allows you to enter the Alerce
Andino National Park in its first few kilometers, which is characterized
by forests of thousands of alerces, some of which surpass 3,000
years in age. After the transfers in La Arena and Hornopiren,
you will arrive in Caleta Gonzalo, which is the starting
point from which to explore Pumalin Park, which includes
excellent areas for camping, a center for visitors, cafeteria, paths
for excursions, cabanas, picnic zones, and sales of crafts.
Chaiten is located to the south of Caleta Gonzalo, and is
the starting point to visit the Termas del Amarillo (Hot Springs of
the Yellow), the Lake Yelcho and Futaleufu.
Lake Yelcho and the surrounding rivers have become one of the
favorite destinations for fly-fishers, especially foreigners; and Futaleufu
-close to the border with Argentina-, is internationally known for
its kayakers, as the river by the same name is considered the most
difficult to practice in for people who take part in this sport.
Further to south and towards the littoral, Puyuhuapi is a
small village located near the Ventisqueros fjord. Eleven kilometers
(7 mi) away, and accessible only by water, you can find the Hot Springs
of Puyuhuapi. From the hot springs you can take a
catamaran that allows you to visit the biggest attraction in the
region: The San Rafael Lagoon.
To the south of Puyuhuapi, the Austral Highway passes through the
Queulat National Park, known for the Salto Padre Garcia
Hurtado (waterfall)-just before the portezuelo (small
harbor)-, and the fabulous Colgante Glacier, visible from
a looking point on the highway.
Past Villa Amengual is the Las Torres Lake National Reserve,
and further along is access to Puerto Aisen and Puerto Chacabuco.
The first was originally the main port in the region, however, a
largest amount of sediment was dragged by the Aisen River,
blocking the bay. Because of this, the port moved 15
kilometers towards the west to Puerto Chacabuco.
The highway crosses the Simpson
River National Reserve, which was named after the river that
crosses it and is renowned among fly-fishers. Among the most beautiful
places of this distinguished park, undoubtedly is the Waterfall
of the Virgin and the Veil of the Bride Waterfall.
Coihayque is located steps from the Macay Mountain,
having a unique plaza with five sides, and includes all services
that a tourist would need. Only 29 kilometers (18mi) to the south
is the Cerrro
El Fraile Ski Center that has two lifts and five trails.
Continuing to the south, you will find some of the most beautiful
destinations in Aisen: Lake La Paloma and Lake
Elizalde, and the Castillo Mountain National Reserve.
The region of Lake General Carrera is one of the most popular
with tourists and is also one of the most beautiful. The main port
is Puerto Ibáñez, accessible from the Austral Highway.
To the south and west of the lake is Puerto Tranquilo, from where
you can rent boats and visit the Marmol Cathedral.
Close to Villa Cerro Castillo there are two sites of archaeological
importance: Manos Cerro Castillo National Monument and the
site known as RI-4. The first is a collection of hundreds of painted
hands, both adults and children, in red tones; and the second is
a painting of a guanaco (animal) and its baby.
Fifty kilometers (31mi) to the south is the crossing with the
detour that brings you to Chile Chico, reaching the border with
Argentina. From this city you can arrive at the Lake General
Carrera Reserve and Lake Jeinimeini Reserve. In this
region, the Caverna
de las Manos (Cave of the Hands) stands out as a unique place
where the Tehuelches drew numerous hands in red, black, yellow, and
white.
Getting back on the Austral Highway and continuing to the south,
arriving in Puerto Bertrand, situated 300 meters (984 ft) from the
place where they drained the lake and gave the origin to the
Baker River, the wildest in Chile. At the mouth of the river
is Tortel, which is known for the color of its houses and
runways or gangplanks of wood.
The road follows the course of the river until Cochrane,
the last important city in the region. To the east of the city you
can find the Tamango National Reserve, famous for its
population of huemules, and the Cochrane Lake. From the reserve
there are beautiful views towards the valley and the Campo de Hielo Sur
(Southern Icefield).
The highway, in its last stretch, continues towards Puerto Yungay,
on the shores of the Bravo River - which you cross to continue the route towards Villa O'Higgins,
on the border with Argentina. This is the final point on the
highway.
Destinations:
The Top Ten
If your time is very limited and wish to see the destinations
that are the most important and best represent the Northern
Patagonia, continue reading as we present you our "Top
Ten."
1st- San Rafael Lagoon: As
part of the San Rafael Lagoon National Park, its main attraction is
the glacier (by the same name) that borders the lagoon and is the
northernmost glacier in the southern hemisphere. The lagoon is, in
reality, an entrance to the ocean, surrounded by the virgin forest
and impressive snow-capped mountains. The glacier, 30 meters (100
ft) tall, 4 kilometers (2.5 mi) wide, and 45 kilometers (28
mi) long, it is permanently moving, with large masses of ice
breaking off and crashing into the waters of the lagoon. More
Information.
2nd- Lake General Carrera - Mármol
Cathedral: Its is the second largest lake in South
America and is shared with Argentina (where it is known as "Buenos Aires").
Thanks to the presence of the Campo de Hielo Norte (Northern
Icefield), this region enjoys a surprising microclimate that is warm
and sunny. The Marmol Cathedral is an extraordinary rock formation
broken by the water of the lake, turning part of it a turquoise
color.
3rd- Futaleufu: This
is a small, lost village in the Patagonia. However, it is a
destination that is known throughout the world thanks to its river
(by the same name) that is a paradise for extreme kayaking and
rafting. Labeled as the most difficult in the world, this
river is encased within numerous rapids and waterfalls. Similar to
Lake Gral. Carrera, Futaleufu has a microclimate and its
tourism infrastructure is first rate, although on a small
scale.
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4th- Cerro Castillo: The Austral
Highway that crosses this national reserve in its path towards the
city of Cochrane, allowing you to cross the mountain range of Cerro
Castillo which separates the watersheds of the Aisen and Ibáñez
Rivers. Known for the beauty of the Castillo Mountain (2,320 meters,
7,610 ft above sea level), the Cerro Church (1,750 meters, 5,740
ft), and the Piedra Conde, which is a rock that has been modeled
by the elements as a human profile. On the other hand, this small
reserve is gaining international attention for its trekking path
that is part of the program "Senderos de Chile" (Paths
of Chile) operated by Conama (National Corporation of the Environment)
More
Information.
5th- Lake General Carrera - Extreme
South: This part of Lake General Carrera and the region
that surrounds it, is one of the main areas of sport fishing in the
Northern Patagonia.
6th- Lake Bertrand: This beautiful
lake of a turquoise-blue color, is located 270 km (168 mi) to the
south of Coyhaique, and is the recipient of waters from Lake General
Carrera, giving origin to the most abundant river in Chile, the
Baker River. It is an excellent destination for fly-fishing and
includes surrounding lodges that are perfect for lovers of this
sport.
7th- Lake Yelcho: Some 45 kilometers
(28 mi) to the south of Chaiten, this lake (of glacial
origen) and the rivers that surround it, are very valued to sport
fishers. The river is surrounded by mountains and glaciers, and
its skirts are covered by thick forests. In this emerald-green lake,
you can fish for salmon and trout.
8th- Queulat National Park:
the park is characterized by the exuberance of its vegetation and
its spectacular waterfalls, however, its main attraction is the
Colgante Glacier, a glacier sitting at a point combining two
mountains. Thanks to a trail it is possible to visit Lake Risopatron,
the Tempanos Lagoon, the seno Queulat, the Padre Garcia
Waterfall, and the Waterfall of the Condon. More
Information.
9th- Puyuhuapi Hot Springs:
Internationally renowned, this thermal center is located in a region
of exuberant vegetation and natural beauty, in the beautiful Dorita
Bay of of the Seno Glacier. Its thermal waters reach temperatures of
up to 85ºC (185°F) and it is recommended for the treatment of
rheumatic diseases and for your skin. More
Information.
10th- Pumalin Park: Located
between Hornopiren and Chaiten, covering an area of
approximately 300,000 hectares (741,313 acres), it is the largest
private park in the world. Its entrance is through Caleta Gonzalo
and includes an excellent area for camping, visitor's center,
cafeteria, trails for excursions, cabanas, picnic areas, and craft
sales. More
Information.
Northern Patagonia is on of the few places in the world where
there still is virgin, unexplored, pristine territory. Ideal for the
development of tourism of special interests, this region is opening
the international and national tourist market. Its most attractive
characteristic is the view which it provides.
Recommended Trips
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