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The
Route of the Muleteer
A
Ride to the Heart of the Andes Mountain Range
Text and Photos: G. Salinas
In the central region of Chile, the Andes Mountain Range does not
stand as tall as in the north, however, we find steep, slender mountains
that exceed heights of 5,000 meters (16,405 ft) above sea level,
covered with snow year-round and dominating the central valley with
their presence.
Four large canyons are lined by the Aconcagua, Mapocho, Maipo,
and Cachapoal Rivers, crossing through the mountain range in this
zone, and there are many small rivers - and respective canyons- that
arrive at the larger ones. It is in these canyons that, like a maze
entering into the mountain range, we can find the mountainous
valleys and where the muleteers unwind as if they were on the patio
at their own houses.
Dedicated to the caring of animals- cows, horses, or goats-, the
muleteer should permanently be worried about keeping watch of the
animals nourishment, in the winter or summer, and to lead the
movement of the animals from one area to another, often long
distances, between the intricate maze of mountainous canyons. In
addition to worries of nutrition, they must also protect the animals
from natural predators, and must therefore act as a veterinarian if
the occasion arises.
Travel the valleys of the mountains, on horseback, in the company
of muleteers, giving you not only an adventure in a different world,
but also a chance to really get to know the personalities and
different way of life that creates this different world.
On
Horseback
The trip begins early in the morning, packing backpacks and
equipment in the vehicle that will bring us from Santiago to
Farellones where the horses and mules will be waiting for us, the
same ones that we will be spending the whole weekend with in the
heart of the Central Andes.
The trip is calm and tranquil. It is the first days of January
and only on the peaks of the highest mountain is there snow... the
rest become naked with minor vegetation of thickets and short trees.
Finally, after the 40 infamous "curves" on the ride up,
you will arrive in Farellones, standing 2,400 meters (7,875ft) above
sea level.
Then, with a fresh cup of coffee, which helps fight off any tired
feelings and reanimate the body, I begin the homework of emptying
the vehicle and loading up the mules. The last piece of homework is
left in the hands of the muleteers that will accompany us on the
journey, as they are the experts and eyes with the knowledge of
animals that allows them to appropriately setup the 4 mules that
will carry all the equipment.
Additionally, the muleteers are the ones who will assign you to the
horse you will ride. Depending on the weight and amount of
experience of the rider, each horse will be assigned to the
appropriate person. In total, 14 horses, 14 riders, and 4 mules,
will be ready to depart when the sun slowly begins to warm the
environment.
The first destination is the region known as "Los Lunes",
a couple of hours from the Farellones. The path begins tranquilly...
riders and horses becoming accustomed to each other... monitoring
temperament and speed. At the head of the group, Fernando,
our muleteer guide, shows us the path to follow, and in this first
stage we will be to the left of the road that leads to the Valle
Nevado Ski Center. Continuing along the side of the ride for a couple
of minutes, the group will then cross the road and continue along
the route, going further and further from the road and getting closer
and closer to the canyon of the Molina River.
One mule escaped us. The white one... and with him was the cargo,
and among other things, my backpack... Nobody realized when the
tricky little mule decided he didn't want to accompany us and decided
to return home. Patricio, our second muleteer-guide, left to look
for the fugitive while the rest of the group began the descent to
the canyon of the Molina River.
For those that are not accustomed to riding on horses, especially
with some of the terrain, the experience can be a little
intimidating. The track of the horses continues below, winding
along an inclined path that is less than a meter wide. The landscape
is equally intimidating. A couple of hours from the last village and
we are already in another world, with another rhythm, with other
rules. The human being is insignificant aside all the magnificence
of the mountain.
Arturo, our host, explains to me that "Los Lunes" is a
preferred place for the muleteers to spend the night. There, there
is a small creek surrounded by a little forest of the lune trees, that offers us an ideal place to eat something,
refresh ourselves, and stretch our legs. At this hour, close to 1 in
the afternoon, the sun is relentless.
On an excursion that is exposed to the elements of nature, it is
necessary to use sunscreen, a hat with flaps, and sunglasses. Wear
thin and light clothing that covers all your body and protects it,
especially the legs, not only from the sun, but also from rubbing
with the horse.
Then, have a short rest, for both the riders and the horses,
renewing us to continue our trek, which should bring us to the place
where we will camp before sunset: Ojos de Agua (Eyes of Water).
The path heads more towards the east, to the El Cepo canyon, near
the Molina River. The water from both river-beds has a whitish color
produced by the sediment that is deposited by the melting snow and
ice. In a distant small and unusually green valley we find a unique,
solitary tree... a pear tree. Together with it, a temporary refuge
created by the muleteers, serves as their resting place during the
summer season.
Leaving El Peral behind, and continuing past the canyon that
narrows little by little, the horses advance either by the slopes or
by the plains, following the tricky
path among the mountains. Our guides tell us that we should move
along the path at a solid pace as we would like to arrive to Ojos de Agua
soon to unload the animals and set up camp before the sun sets and
the temperature drops rapidly. It is important to remember
that this excursion takes place in the dead of summer, and for this
reason the canyons can be unbearably hot during the day, but can
also reach very low temperatures at night.
We arrive at Ojos de Agua. This place is an ample site with small
lagoons that are created by the Cepo River. In addition, there is a
flow of pure, crystalline water that falls to the base of the
mountain. Then after stretching our legs, tying up our
horses, and loosening the saddle to let them graze, we can observe the tranquil environment. Our muleteer guides,
meanwhile, begin to unpack the mules and unsaddle the horses.
Once our equipment is unloaded, we can prepare to organize and
set up camp. We begin to prepare the carp and then set up what will
be the dining area, a large tent where we will put camping tables
and all that is necessary to cook and eat. When all is ready, Cristian,
our expert cook and guide, will begin the preparation on a delicious
grill.
The sun will have already set and the briskness in the air will
be noted. With hats, warm clothing, and being strategically
situated in front of the fire, not only will you stay warm, but
also, you will enjoy the anecdotes and stories of Fernando and Juan
Carlos on their trips through the valleys and mountain ranges,
guiding their animals to pastures.
The view of the sky and stars will leave you with your jaw
dropped and in total awe. If the mountains are impressive during the day,
the sky is just as impressive at night. The stars seem to be very
close and the constellations can be distinguished very
clearly.
It is now time to hit the sack and sleep. The following day
awaits you with excitement. Wake up for breakfast, help pick up and
pack the camp and prepare to leave. We will go to start a small
excursion on horseback to a river for a few hours before returning,
collecting your things and the mules to begin the return trip to
Farellones, this time without any stops.
The following morning will arise splendidly. Then, a drink and a
cold shower in the waters of the Cepo, have breakfast, put
everything together and leave. We can cross the river in three
parts, depending on the water levels, and the water flow should be
mildly turbulent Remember, however, the trip is clearly for
beginners and this is not a difficult part of the trip. The mule,
similar to what Yolanda rides, stops in the middle of the stream
before crossing it completely.
A spectacular waterfall from a stream that falls from the left
side of the canyon calls our attention and we stray from the path
towards it. Then,
to return to the route, we have to go down by way of sand and clay
deposits. If you already consider it an adventure to descend these
deposits on foot, just imagine doing it on a set of four
hooves.
We then continue a couple of kilometers more before returning. At
this point its too late for us to continue to Piedra Numerada, our
final destination. This is for a separate trip.
To our surprise, the return trip is guided by... the mules.
Quickly taking the front, these animals know the path perfectly,
and despite the weight of the baggage and equipment, they take on
their job with enthusiasm. The horses don't stay behind them, moving
right alongside and past them. For the first half of the trek we
had to demand a swift pace, while on the return trip we had to contain
them a little.
Almost all of the return path seemed familiar to me. However, at
a key moment, the mules continue down the path that rises up the
side of the canyon. The path increases in steepness with every step
and I questioned whether a mistake was made and we were on the wrong
path, at the wrong altitude. Arturo calmed me down. If we
hadn't passed "Los Lunes" on the first half of our trip
we would have taken this trail. It turned out to be not so bad that
we switched trails... it would have been a shame to miss such an
experience.
The arrival to the Farellones came without a problem. Apparently,
not only the mules wished to return home quickly. Two days on
horseback, for those who aren't accustomed to such an experience, is
something your body will likely resent.
Again, pack and unpack, not the mules, but rather the vehicle
that will return you to Santiago. Then a farewell and thank-you to
the muleteers-guides, that looked after us, entertaining and
advising during the trip, and finally a promise to return with more
time to finish the trip.
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Low
Peaks
With the purpose of maximizing the Central Region of Chile
as a region that also possesses important natural tourist
destinations, and moreover as a result of a personal restlessness,
Arturo Ramirez, Chief Manager of the Buenavista Apart Hotel,
has created a series of excursions to the foothills and mountains
where two fundamental elements standout: the Andes mountain
chain as a natural destination with still so much to explore,
and the muleteer, a typical character whose knowledge of the
mountains and their mystery is of great interest to any tourist.
All the routes, lasting one or more days, that are toured
on horseback, utilize the same paths and resting places of the
muleteers: El Peral, Laguna La Parva, Los Lunes, La Leonera,
Ojos de Agua, Vega Piedra Numerada, Puente de Nieve, and La
Pastosa. Each of these routes takes us to places where the
majesty of the mountain chain appears in all of its splendor
and where the tranquility and relaxation empower the spirit.
For Bajo Cumbres or Low Peaks, the name through which
Buenavista Apart Hotel realizes these excursions, security is
fundamental. The Carabineros or Chilean Police are informed in
detail of each excursion and each trip is equipped with a
radio, cell phones, first-aid kit, and emergency muleteer.
Previous to the excursion each participant receives a list of
equipment they should bring, the schedule of the trek, and
clothing.
Before leaving, the group receives instructions on how to
ride a horse and information about the route. People from age
10 to 60 can participate in these types of journeys with no
problem, which makes this type of excursion ideal for families
that enjoy contact with nature.
Lodging
Excursions
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