THE TOURIST LOG BOOK OF AN ADVENTURE CRUISE TO ANTARCTICA
PENINSULA ABOARD A QUARK EXPEDITIONS SHIP
By Pedro Chanceaulme
Day 1
I have arrived to the port of the southernmost
city in the world, Ushuaia, located in Tierra del Fuego Argentina, to board one of the
most exciting adventures in my life, a cruise to Antarctica. Technically the southernmost town
in the world is located south of Ushuaia, crossing the Beagle Channel in Navarino Island,
Chile and its name is Puerto Williams. We should be fair saying Ushuaia has the dimensions
and services characteristic of a 25.000 inhabitants city in constant and expansible
growth. On the other hand Puerto Williams, at the moment, it reaches the dimensions of a
town with a modest number of residents where most belongs to the naval base established in
that point.
I
board a solid Russian Polar Investigation Ship, steel reinforced
hull especially designed to navigate in those adverse sea and
ice conditions, under the control of the most prestigious and
famous ice captains that world knows, the Russian Polar Captains.
I settle in my functional cabin, I order my belongings in the
closet and check the comfortable bed. By the ship public address
system all passenger are called to the lounge to meet our Expedition
Leader, who introduces us the guides and lecturers that will
drive us through the marvels of Antarctica. After the formal
presentations, we find we sum up 14 different nationalities
between passengers, guides and crew, Austrian, Belgian, Canadian,
French, Swiss, German, Italian, North American, Chilean, Argentinean,
etc. conforms this true Noah´s Ark of nationalities.
With
fuel, food and all necessary supply for a secure and comfortable
expedition, we cast off from the lines that tied us to South
America and our adventure begins toward the south of the south,
where a vast and unexplored continent waits for us.
During
dinner we reach open sea, the feared Drake Passage receives
us with kindness. The captain adjusts ship speed to the length
of the waves offering us a comfortable navigation, what I deeply
thank because I should recognize that navigation in upset waters
is not one of my favorite pleasures and I get dizzy quickly.
Night was fine and during the morning I felt enough integrated
to the navigation movement of the ship, the same as that most
of my trip partners.
Day
2
After
a good breakfast, a lectures program directed by experts in
varied matters waits for us, "South Sea Birds", enlarge our
theoretical knowledge of this fascinating world, continued by
a practical demonstration outside deck, identifying the birds
that follow the ship. As the wind begins to take an unusual
intensity, 7 in the scale of Beaufort, the temperature gets
down quickly making unsafe and uncomfortable our permanency
outside, our practical class finished getting inside to drink
some hot drinks to recover our body temperature, so quickly
lost.
The
captain makes corrections to soften the navigation in the stormy
sea. The intensity of the storm turns our navigation more and
more rough but grasped to our seats, we continue with attention
the chat "Introduction to Antarctica", made in French and English
for all passengers' better understanding. The storm continues
and our cultural baggage is enlarged with the interesting chats
as "Antarctic and Sub Antarctic Birds", "The Brush Tailed Penguins"
and "The Geopolitics of Antarctica". After the excellent dinner,
the rude navigation and the chats of the day leave us drunkards
of knowledge and sea. The bed waits for us without any discussion.
Day
3
The
new day surprised us with calm sea and White Neck, Wilson Storms,
Giants and Wandering Petrels, and many seabirds surrounded the
ship. Some icebergs begin to appear in the horizon, the same
as a persistent fog that makes the icebergs to appear and disappear
like an endless game. Movies and lectures enlarge our knowledge
of the Antarctic world. During afternoon and in accordance to
the recommendations that the system of the Antarctic Treaty
imposes to those companies that make tourism in Antarctic and
also, following the instructions of the International Association
of Antarctic Tourism Operators (IAATO) about the behavior that
visitors should observe to this almost unpolluted areas of the
planet for conservation and enjoyment for future generations.
The Expedition Leader distributes and explains in detail the
norms and recommendations contained in the pamphlets, supported
by an interesting National Science Foundation of USA three languages
video, called "Behold Antarctica".
After
an informative next day excursion meeting, programmed to land
the Rongue Island in Antarctica Peninsula, we answered the Captain
Welcome Cocktail and Dinner invitation, where introduces us
his officers. A magnificent dinner and repeated champagne toasts
are made in honor to this new Antarctica experience. During
the dinner we navigate to some 20 kilometers of Smith Island
and we enter to the Strait of Gerlache, finally we are in Antarctica.
After the party we go to the bed with adrenaline running through
our veins due to the following day adventure.
Day
4
Early
morning, approx. at 05.30 hours our Expedition Leader announces
us Whilelhmina Bay proximity, icebergs and smaller pieces of
float ice gently still in the bay, over them we can observe
Crabeaters and Antarctica Seals. A Skua and some Snow Petrels
fly over our heads in the luminous southern morning. We anchor
in Rogue Island and immediately the first trip to land in zodiacs
boats begins, where we appreciate from the recommended distance,
about 5 meters, our first Gentoo Penguin and its chicks in the
beach. It is also possible to appreciate Antarctica and Skin
Seals next to their small and beautiful breeding.
The
beach was covered with whale bones and we could sight some Antarctic
Penguins that observed us curious. We returned to the ship and
go South by the Neumayer Channel. Low clouds and fog began to
cover the sky. A strong snowfall received us while we pass the
splendid Lemaire Channel, well-known as the Kodak Passage or
the Fuji Funnel, due to the immense quantity of pictures taken
by the tourists of the scenic beauty of its mountainous geography
that rises about 3.000 meters abruptly from the sea.
Icebergs
and float ice with Leopard and Crabeaters Seals, floating before
our navigation route delaying our track. After passing Booth
Island we anchor among the Hovegaard, Booth and Pleneau Islands.
We explore an immense icebergs garden and ice floats with many
Leopard and Crabeater Seals resting on them. The very near observation
of a couple of Minke Whales delighted our afternoon. We returned
to the ship for a perfect and delicious Austrian dinner and
dances, prepared by the assisting chef.
Passim...
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