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  Chile : Activities : Rock Climbing

 ROCK CLIMBING

IntroductionIntroduction
Basic AspectsBasic Aspects
DestinationsDestinations
RecommendatinsRecommendations
EquipmentEquipment
Books
ServicesServices
 

INTRODUCTION

This sport possesses all the technical elements of mountaineering, but does not take place in alpine conditions, which therefore makes it a sport in its own right. The objective of this sport is to climb rock walls using nothing but your hands and feet. In general, we distinguish between two types of climbing: traditional and sport.
Torrecillas

Traditional ascension or free climbing takes place in an alpine environment, on routes without fixed equipment. These routes are normally several rope lengths long and each one of these pitches can surpass the normal 25 mts. (82 ft). You move across them by setting the equipment yourself. In this type of climbing you may find obstacles that are impossible to pass free style (using the body only), and must therefore use equipment such as stirrups or "hooks"; this last style is called artificial climbing.

Sport climbing is like traditional climbing but it's practiced on routes previously equipped with bolts and anchors. This allows the sport to be practiced with a greater safety margin and a smaller investment in equipment. This type of climbing can be practiced both on rocks and on artificial walls. On rocks the route lengths are typically between 25 and 50 Mts. (82 and 164 ft), but it is common to find routes several times these lengths. Climbing walls are generally built of concrete or wood panels, to which footholds are bolted, similar to ones found on rock. The wall's height and form depends largely on the purpose for which it was constructed: training or competition.

History

One of the suggestions for the origin of sport climbing is that it came from alpine mountain climbing. The first references to climbing as an independent discipline date back to 1911, in Europe, where there was a distinction between free and artificial climbing. The difference between the styles is that the first was practiced without any support or equipment at all.

Rock wall - Las Chilcas

Between the 1930s and the 1950s artificial climbing developed greatly, and then in the 1950s pitons were introduced. In the 60s the climbing harness was developed which was an important safety development. It was in the 70s when people started to talk about free climbing: nothing of pitons and drilling that damaged the rock, but to ascend solely by the climber's own means.

This, however, limited the increase in difficulty levels, which was the reason why at the end of the 70s the spit was introduced (a pressure nail with an expander and a metal nucleus which is inserted in a hole in the rock, and a perforated board for the snap harness). For some, the invention of the spit was the beginning of modern sport climbing.

Climbing in Chile

Sport climbing has been popular in Chile for many years now. In 1986 a few national climbers began to discover and to develop some of the places which are now popular climbing sites. Since then the development has been slow but steady and not only the number of climbing sites, but also the number of climbers has increased significantly.

BASIC ASPECTS

Rock wall - Las Chilcas
Despite the various safety measures and equipment that have been designed to reduce the risk of rock-climbing, it still remains a high-risk activity, which can cause injury and even death.

It is, therefore, essential to learn how to rock-climb with someone knowledgeable, either by taking a climbing course or lessons with a qualified instructor or experienced friend. In Chile, the Chilean Mountaineering Federation (Federacion de Andinismo de Chile) runs climbing courses.

Rock-climbing is an activity that requires courage and physical fitness, both of which are achieved through plenty of practice as well as other physical activity.

DESTINATIONS: When and where

With over 4000 km (2,500 mi) of mountain range, Chile possesses innumerable places for rock-climbing. The following places are among the best known.
 

Northern Region

  • Socaire Creek (near San Pedro de Atacama)
  • La Pampilla (Coquimbo)

Central Region

  • Cajon del Maipo: Piedra Rommel, Las Palestras, Torrecillas, Cerro San Gabriel,
    Placa Roja, Gris.
  • Las Chilcas
  • Punta de Tralca
  • La Campana Mt

Southern Region

  • Road to Termas de Chillan
  • Cerro Torre
  • Torres del Paine

Santiago has several places with climbing walls:

  • Climbing Planet
  • Francisco Miranda School
  • Universidad Metropolitana de la Educación
  • Federación de Andinismo de Chile

Some more suggestions of places to visit can be found in our Places section.

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RECOMMENDATIONS

Sunset
Environmental: In order to maintain these areas safe and clean for other visitors, please respect the following suggestions:
  • Be respectful of your surroundings.
  • Do not dump garbage. Take out what you bring in. If you can, remove any litter that you find.
  • Build fires only in designated areas.
  • Do not collect flora or fauna specimens
  • Whenever possible, stay on the marked footpaths and trails.
  • Do not write, paint or mark on stones or trees. Nobody needs to know that you were there.
  • If you need to relieve yourself, dig a 25-cm (10 in) depth hole and cover it completely. This must be done at least 30 meters (100 ft) from any water source (rivers, creek, lakes, and estuaries).
  • Avoid leaving traces of your visit, this will allow other visitors to enjoy these sites as nature intended.

Safety: Climbing implies that you have accepted all of its inherent risks and dangers. Expert instruction, good judgment and the right equipment can help to diminish the risks; nevertheless, it cannot be eliminated. The possibility of a serious injury or even death is always present. Remember, being safe is your responsibility, take care!

EQUIPMENT

Choice and maintenance of equipment is fundamental in all sports and especially rock-climbing. Rock climbing requires both specialized equipment and specialized instruction for its use. 

Never use second hand or homemade equipment. Your life may depend on it!

The essential equipment for rock-climbing is:

  • Climbing shoes
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Quick draws
  • Belay device (Gri-Gri or ATC)
  • Chalk bag

BOOKS

The following books contain information on places where you can rock climb, as well as facts on tour operators, rates, conditions, etc. More alternatives on texts in our Book section.

SERVICES

Associations and clubs

Federacion de Andinismo de Chile
Almirante Simpson 77, Providencia, Santiago
Phones (56-2) 2220888 y 2229140

North Face
Avda. Condell 703, Providencia, Santiago
Phones (56-2) 634 6391

Links

www.andinismochile.cl
Education and risk prevention for mountain sports.

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